Foundation bred Cream Legbar eggs. Birds are absolutely beautiful and lay blue eggs with the slightest hint of green with excellent regularity.
current limit: half dozen per shipment
Orders are collected after receipt of payment, based on availability. If orders are not available immediately, they will be waitlisted and you will be notified of an estimated ship date. Please contact us prior to placing your order regarding our availability if you have a specific timeline.
Your precious cargo is packaged with extreme care, and we can currently boast a 100% intact delivery rate!
Priority Mail Hatching Egg Shipping Rates:
6-12 eggs: $12.50
13-24 eggs: $18
25-36 eggs: $30
37-48 eggs: $36
CREAM LEGBARS (Foundation Bred)
What you will need to hatch and raise chicks:
- an incubator, preferably with an autoturner (or a broody hen)
- a calibrated hygrometer
- a reliable thermometer (with confirmed accuracy)
- a brooder and heat lamp
- paper towels
- shavings or sand for brooder
- chick starter, water and vitamins
- extra: a digital thermostat for heat mats
- extra: shelf liner to keep eggs from rolling around too much
- A large oral syringe to add water without losing humidity during hatch
When you receive your hatching eggs:
Take them out of their packaging and place them into a clean, empty carton, pointy end down. Allow them to rest for up to 24 hours on the counter. (This allows the air cells the best chance to settle after possible mistreatment while in transit.)
I recommend incubating at about 99.5 degrees Farenheit. Personally, I keep my humidity right around 50-65% during the first 18 days. During the hatching period, I raise it to 75-80%. If you have an autoturner, make sure you turn it off by day 18-19 to allow the embryos to get into position for hatching. Depending on the model of incubator you use, you can leave your autoturner in place to assist in keeping the eggs from being pushed around too much during hatch. (It's like a mosh pit in there!) I use a non-slip shelf liner underneath my turner, and it helps ENORMOUSLY with this.
Once your chicks have started hatching, you can keep them in the incubator for up to 72 hours while everyone has a chance to hatch and dry off and fluff up. Only open the incubator during hatch for EMERGENCIES. A drastic drop in humidity can cause the death of pipped chicks, due to what is referred to as shrinkwrapping of the mebrane. If you must open the incubator, wet down a paper towel with warm water before opening, and immediately lay it over your pipped eggs to help them retain moisture while the incubator is open. Have someone help you, so you can go in and do what you have to, and they can close it up as quickly as possible after you are out.
Once everyone has hatched and dried out completely, you can move them to your prepared brooder! I like to use a clear sterlite bin for the first week. Your heatlamp should be positioned in such a way that they can get away from it in case it is too hot. Food and water should be placed a little ways away from the heat lamp. I like to use a digital heat mat thermostat to control the temperature. The thermostat plugs into an outlet, and then you plug your heat lamp into the control unit. Place the temperature gauge under the lamp, on the shavings, sand or paper towels, where it is warmest. Set the thermostat to turn off once it reaches a degree past the desired temperature. Once the temp dips a couple of degrees below the desired temp, the thermostat will automatically turn the lamp back on, thus regulating the temperature of your brooder.
Those are pretty much the basics of hatching! If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to send me a message here or on Instagram @pastures.and.pine!
Due to variations in handling and incubation practices, hatching eggs are a non returnable, non refundable item. If for some reason the eggs you receive are infertile, you may provide photos of the clear, undeveloped contents of the egg for refund or replacement.